Learn how to make wire wrap jewelry with jewelry artist Eni Oken

Eni Oken's Jewelry Journal - A Personal Journey

Tuesday, May 22, 2007

YOJ 2007 Week 20 - Pink Marine Necklace




My love for the ocean is eternal, and I can't resist natural materials. This Pink Marine pendant and necklace has a potpourri of natural and marine elements. The mottled brown and pink stone is natural chalcedony, very hard to find this way. The angel skin coral is vintage, not dyed. There are also pink opals, rhodochrosite and pink shell. And to top off, some warm pink faceted tourmaline, graded AAA. To buy this piece, go to Pink Marine pendant and necklace.

Saturday, May 19, 2007

Pearls with wire wrapping

I got the following question via email:

"I just bought your tutorial for the Mosaic Pendant. I have some pearls I'd like to use, but I'm wondering if wire would rub the nacre off? Are pearls a good idea with wire wrapping?"

The answer:
You shouldn't have a problem with pearls rubbing off, unless you oxidize them and unless they aren't really pearls (imitation pearls). The wire wrapped around pearls will not hurt them at all.

Fake or imitation pearled beads are usually plastic or glass spheres coated with a thin layer of what appears to be mother of pearl. Fake pearls were widely used in vintage custom jewelry, but are not commonly used with precious metals. Fake pearls should not be confused with CULTURED pearls, which are man made by introducing a small element into an oyster and waiting some time until it is covered with a layer of real nacre (mother of pearl). Most of the pearls we use today are cultured pearls, since natural pearls are rare and hard to find.

Yes, pearls can be great for wire wrapping, the problem is when oxidize (antique) the piece, the chemicals can be pretty rough on delicate pearls. To avoid excessive chemicals on pearls, use an old paintbrush to apply the chemicals on to the piece.

Tumbling pearls can also be a little rough on pearls.

Tuesday, May 15, 2007

Fine versus sterling silver

I received the following question:

"You always mention sterling silver, but, recently, my metal guy suggested that I use fine silver instead, for the wrapping... he said it is less likely to break, and less likely to tarnish, than sterling...... What is your take on that? "

The answer:
Fine silver is 99.9 percent pure or higher while sterling silver is 92.5 percent pure or higher. The remaining percentage is usually copper because it is the best metal to alloy with silver. The percentage difference between fine and sterling silver may seem small, but that extra amount of copper is just enough to make the sterling harder than fine silver.

I personally don't like fine silver for wrapping and coiling, because it is so soft that it normally comes undone, while sterling seems to "hold" and stick better. I prefer to use dead-soft sterling silver, which is soft enough, but still holds it shape well.

Monday, May 14, 2007

YOJ 2007 Week 19 - Woman Necklace

Last year I was approached by Debi Johnson (http://torchdancerstudio.com) to help her create bails for her fabulous glass shells. As soon as I lay eyes on these shells, I knew they would match perfectly with some rhodochrosite beads I had. I created the neckpiece with a real shell and a thai silver shell, and the usual underwater critters: a seahorse, an angel fish and a tiny lobster. So far, I have created two of these fantastic necklaces, one just recently for my MIL who turned 60 and celebrated her bday at Disneyland, no less. To see more images of this piece, click here: Woman Necklace with Rhodochrosite.

Monday, May 07, 2007

Ruby Red Bumblebee ring

I have received lately quite a few emails asking how to make the interesting Ruby Red Ring with bumblebee. This ring was created as a variation of the Ornate Ring, with the following differences:

1) Instead of a coin or cab stone, a fat rondelle was used. To attach the rondelle to the setting, slip a seed bead and a daisy spacer onto a piece of wire. Slip both ends of the wire through the rondelle and pull one end to each side. Then attach each wire end at opposite sides of the setting.

2) Substitute one of the spiral settings for a small charm -- in this case a bumblebee.

3) The spirals were kept shallow and far apart, allowing plenty of room to add larger 3mm beads in between.

4) The setting was created larger than the size of the rondelle, which allowed room to fill up with mismatched silver beads.

Original Ornate ring:
tut037c

Ruby Red ring variation:
gem091e

Sunday, May 06, 2007

Holding a piece while working

I received the following question:

"I'm just learning wrapping and am using copper wire until I am skilled enough to move on to silver. When I'm wrapping I sometimes hold the piece steady with pliers, but I'm wondering if this is a bad habit to get into...

I don't know, since silver is a softer metal, if I would put dents in my work if I hold it with pliers.... ?? Is it okay to use pliers, or should one just hold on with your fingers -- and if so, how do you keep the piece stable while wrapping?"

The answer:
I think anything you can do to make your life easier is welcome, even holding pieces with pliers. To avoid making dents on the metal, try buying a product call PLASTI DIP (I bought mine though Amazon) and coat an old pair of chain nose or flat nose pliers with them, so they don't mark your silver. Make sure to use an older pair of pliers.

I alternate between holding pieces with pliers and holding with my hands. When the piece is too delicate or small, I hold it with the pliers.

Saturday, May 05, 2007

Attaching a bead to a jumpring


Today I was going through my old image files and found an interesting image I created in Photoshop a few years ago, which shows how to attach a bead to a jumpring. This element could be used as a link on a chain, for interest.
It's pretty self-explanatory, but here is the step by step:
1) Find a bead which will fit inside a soldered jumpring. The bead should be just a tiny bit smaller than the inside of the ring.
2) Thread the bead onto a piece of wire, and loop each end around the jumpring once.
3) Wrap each end of the wire around the itself, inbetween the bead and ring.
4) Wrap a second time and trim both ends.

Thursday, May 03, 2007

Tiny Vermeil Beads

I received the following question regarding tiny vermeil (silver plated with gold) beads:

"I have not found a good wholesale supplier and the wonderful local store that I get them from can only get them sporadically and lately I have had customers complain that the vermeil plating wears off quickly. Do you have any suggestions or leads?"

Answer: Tiny vermeil beads are hard to find. I bought my last batch at Kamol, but they are only present during the shows and DO not have a website.
Here are a couple of online places which carry them:
Thailand e-mart: my favorite new supplier for thai vermeil, reasonable prices and good service. www.Shiana.com: beautiful stuff, but prices a little high.
When choosing tiny vermeil beads, avoid the ones that have sharp edges, giving preference to rounder shapes. The sharp edges rub against surfaces more easily and tend to wear off the gold.

If you know a reliable source of tiny vermeil beads, write to me!

Tuesday, May 01, 2007

YOJ 2007 Week 18 - Netted abalone necklace




My friend Karen Hardy (thanks girlfriend!) sent me these great pieces of abalone a while back, and I was just waiting for the right inspiration to use them. It finally arrived! I set the abalone in a netted bezel similar to the Rhodochrosite Golden Necklace and the Lemon Quartz Pendant. While the technique is essentially the same, the materials are radically different: silver instead of goldfilled wire; irregular stones instead of faceted; animals instead of beads. Looks completely different!!! I *really* don't want to sell this one.... I want to keep it for myself... My eternal problem... not wanting to sell my goodies.
Abalone, sterling silver, colorado sunstone, labradorite.